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Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

Last post 03-16-2013, 2:59 AM by Anonymous. 16 replies.
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  •  06-19-2010, 4:48 PM 2608

    Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    Not all of us can afford the PRW 1300111 Low Profile Racing Engine Test Stand for $1599.99 plus shipping. I bought cars for less than that. So I decided to roll my own sorta speak, (pun intended) for a fraction of the cost.

    The Goal:
    1. Cheap - quality metal, but I'm not gonna chrome plate it.
    2. Simple - don't need the complexity of making it adjustable, I won't be tuning an LS1 any time soon.

    Materials:
    I decided to use 2 inch square tube, and 2 inch angle iron total cost $127.24 (casters and hardware included)... and they pre cut to length for .50 cents per cut.

    Tools:
    Although you can get by without a metal cut off saw, this project requires a welding machine. I know what you're thinking, well there you go a decent Lincoln or Miller MIG jobbie will run you $500 bucks. But wait I bought one for under a hundred bucks, it's a Flux Core but it will work. Justification, I already have another project that I will need it for, and now that I own one, I'm no longer limited by what projects I take on.

    Optional:
    Gauges, I plan on picking up some from Harbor Freight at a later time.

    You may follow the build here: http://www.gregandsandy.com/302/teststand.htm

     

  •  06-20-2010, 12:48 AM 2611 in reply to 2608

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    Nice stuff! I've just linked to the thread from the front page!
  •  06-22-2010, 11:28 PM 2613 in reply to 2611

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    I hate to say this because I will sound like one of those glossy paged car magazines, but a project like this can be done in a weekend. Provided two things:

    1. First you don't have to stop what you are doing to take pictures of every single step to share with others on some forum later.

    2. Second you don't choose to do it during World Cup weekend. [May not effect non European decent fabricators]

    So all in all it took me about six days. Most of which were weekdays spent in the garage after work 2 to 4 hours depending on the task for that day.

    I invite you to see PAGE TWO of the build, where we start out by building the motor mounts for the test stand.

    Building An Engine Test Stand

     

  •  07-28-2010, 10:28 AM 2679 in reply to 2608

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    Thanks!  I'm gonna give this a shot - I have a Harbor freight MIG as well,  need to test my new 302 build for my 63 1/2 Comet and then store the original 74K mile 260 after the swap!
  •  04-07-2011, 2:43 PM 2850 in reply to 2679

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    I'm getting the tubing now to make one also. go to a junkyard and find a radiator. for a ford, we need a bellhousing(stick/auto) to mount the starter. damn good idea!
  •  04-10-2011, 2:42 AM 2851 in reply to 2850

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    good luck guys, glad to see the thread lives on, I just bought a 68 Mustang with a seized up 289 in it so I may use my again as well
  •  04-12-2011, 10:25 PM 2865 in reply to 2851

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    Nice! Is it a hard top or a fastback?
  •  04-14-2011, 2:58 AM 2874 in reply to 2865

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    C0V3R:
    Nice! Is it a hard top or a fastback?

    dime a dozen Coupe but I love it, fastbacks are way overpriced these days and I don't get why, it's the same car, I can see paying more for the GT 350 or GT 500 but not three times more for just a fastback

  •  02-01-2012, 10:28 AM 3113 in reply to 2874

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    stand looks amazing.  I've been looking to make something like this for a while now.  I have a question though.  what wall thickness did you use for the square tubing?

     

    TIA

  •  02-02-2012, 9:35 PM 3117 in reply to 3113

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    I don't know if the OP frequents here anymore, but it looks like its a little thinner than .120 wall. Every structural piece i use on my trucks are generally 3/16" or 1/4". But that's mainly because I'm beefing up for rock crawling. .120 wall will definitely be enough, maybe just a little heavier than you want to move around the shop. 
  •  02-03-2012, 9:48 AM 3119 in reply to 3117

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    thanks for the response.  I kind of figured the OP wouldn't respond either since it is an old thread.  I went out and got the tubing yesterday.  I came back with some 1/8".  I wanted to keep it as light as possible but I much rather it be safe.  I think I might get some 14gauge for all the uprights though.
  •  02-03-2012, 1:59 PM 3120 in reply to 3119

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    I cnocur, it's definitely nice to have it light as possible, and if it still appears weak you can always add metal. 
  •  02-03-2012, 3:57 PM 3122 in reply to 3113

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    quickNOTCH:

    what wall thickness did you use for the square tubing?

    OP here, LOL... I moved to a new house recently and the stand and the engine in it are still at the old place, I will shoot over there tomorrow and measure the thickness for you just to be sure.

  •  02-03-2012, 3:58 PM 3123 in reply to 3117

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    villlein:
    I don't know if the OP frequents here anymore,

    Still alive...

     

  •  02-03-2012, 4:01 PM 3124 in reply to 3119

    Re: Roll Your Own Engine Test Stand

    quickNOTCH:
    thanks for the response.  I kind of figured the OP wouldn't respond either since it is an old thread.  I went out and got the tubing yesterday.  I came back with some 1/8".  I wanted to keep it as light as possible but I much rather it be safe.  I think I might get some 14gauge for all the uprights though.

    Good luck with your build, the trickiest part was remembering the engine block bolts are off set from the right side to the left side, so after I built the base I fabbed the legs and bolted them to the engine block then lowered the engine with the legs to the base of the stand and tack welded them down, then I removed the engine and welded them AMEN for good...

     

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